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Mourad Mazouz's Marais Maghreb institution since 1990 — tagines and pastilla under 17th-century beams.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon — the chic French fire-cooking room.

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686 — Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

One Michelin star inside Place des Vosges' most discreet pavilion — Marais gastronomy without the spectacle.

Open-fire Marais bistro where côte de bœuf is grilled in front of you on a wood hearth.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges — and the city's largest pastis collection.

Argentinian carnivore room in a former butcher shop — relaunched with Mauro Colagreco's hand on the menu.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Marais Korean BBQ — chef Sunghak Han's table-top grill, halal option, Michelin guide listing.

Frédéric Anton's 3-Michelin pavilion in the Bois de Boulogne.