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Mourad Mazouz's Marais Maghreb institution since 1990 — tagines and pastilla under 17th-century beams.

1889 Abbesses brasserie — shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon — the chic French fire-cooking room.

The Goncourt Prize restaurant since 1914 — Place Gaillon institution under chef Romain Van Thienen

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686 — Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

1919 Place des Ternes brasserie — Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

1883 Belle Époque seafood brasserie — Rostang family, daily-port-sourced fish.

One Michelin star inside Place des Vosges' most discreet pavilion — Marais gastronomy without the spectacle.

Palais-Royal arcade institution since 1784 — historic monument with a kitchen in transition

Open-fire Marais bistro where côte de bœuf is grilled in front of you on a wood hearth.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges — and the city's largest pastis collection.

Argentinian carnivore room in a former butcher shop — relaunched with Mauro Colagreco's hand on the menu.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Marais Korean BBQ — chef Sunghak Han's table-top grill, halal option, Michelin guide listing.

Frédéric Anton's 3-Michelin pavilion in the Bois de Boulogne.

2-Michelin institution off Place des Ternes — 45 years of haute French classicism.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.