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The trompe-l'oeil fruit pastries you've seen on Instagram, boutique and salon

Paris's oldest covered market, since 1615, 21 stalls, all of lunchtime Marais, on one block.

The cult sandwich stall inside Marché des Enfants Rouges, 30-minute queue, 13.50€, no apologies.

France's oldest tea house since 1854, the Bourg-Tibourg flagship with the colonial-era painted casks

Emmanuel Ryon, MOF glacier, Pastry World Champion, turns gelato into Marais grand cru.

The Île Saint-Louis institution Gault Millau crowned in 1961, still family-run, still the standard.

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades, tea room facing the Tuileries

Belle Époque salon de thé since 1903, Mont-Blanc and chocolat l'Africain under the rue de Rivoli arcades

Marais chocolatier with a tea room, millefeuille made à la minute, possibly Paris's finest caramels.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie, kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.