Jacques Genin

Jacques Genin runs an entirely manual, entirely artisanal chocolaterie out of an atelier on rue de Turenne, with a tea-room corner upstairs where the millefeuille is built in front of you, à la minute. Three flavours: chocolate, praline, caramel. The caramels themselves — coffee, mango-passion, vanilla, ginger — are the city's reference; the pâtes de fruits and the chocolates compete for the title. Genin trained at the highest end of the pastry world before going independent, and the boutique still functions more like a craft workshop than a retail experience. Order the millefeuille on a quiet Tuesday afternoon; take a box of caramels for later.