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1919 Place des Ternes brasserie, Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

MOF chef, 1-Michelin, Parisian-apartment dining on rue Bayen.

1883 Belle Époque seafood brasserie, Rostang family, daily-port-sourced fish.

The first Italian in Paris to win a Michelin star, 600-bottle list, 40 years on.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie, Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen, and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

2-Michelin institution off Place des Ternes, 45 years of haute French classicism.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen, the realistic same-week booking.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon, the chic French fire-cooking room.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal, Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation, Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

Mediterranean cooking with a Tuileries terrace at the foot of the Louvre