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The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686, Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome, choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

Mourad Mazouz's Marais Maghreb institution since 1990, tagines and pastilla under 17th-century beams.

Sartre and Beauvoir's corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain since 1887.

The other Saint-Germain café, with the better view of the church.

The Directoire mansion with the retractable roof, a multi-decade Paris institution off the Champs-Élysées.

One Michelin star inside Place des Vosges' most discreet pavilion, Marais gastronomy without the spectacle.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.