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Jérôme Banctel's three-Michelin in a Napoleon III mansion off the Champs-Élysées.

Two Michelin stars in the Hôtel de la Monnaie, looking at the Seine.

Two-Michelin glass pavilion at George V where the kitchen runs on vegetables, dairy and seafood — no meat.

Simone Zanoni's Mediterranean-Italian one-Michelin at George V — the palace alternative to a tasting menu.

Three-Michelin since 1996 — the chef who taught Paris that haute cuisine could improvise.

Yannick Alléno's three-Michelin in a pavilion at the Champs-Élysées gardens — the sauce-extraction reference.

The Plaza's restored heritage-French dining room — recipes excavated from two-and-a-half centuries of menus.

Two Michelin since 1946 — the institution where Paris learned modern restaurant service.

Alain Passard's three-Michelin temple to vegetables on rue de Varenne.

Frédéric Anton's two-star kitchen 125m up the Eiffel Tower.

2-Michelin institution off Place des Ternes — 45 years of haute French classicism.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon — the chic French fire-cooking room.

Three Michelin stars, Japanese precision in a Coq-Héron jewel-box dining room

Two-star Ducasse dining room overlooking the Tuileries, with Cédric Grolet desserts

One Michelin star inside Place des Vosges' most discreet pavilion — Marais gastronomy without the spectacle.

Fewer than 20 seats, one Michelin star, one chef's vision — the Marais's most surgical tasting menu.

William Ledeuil's Southeast-Asian-French cuisine, Michelin-starred since 2008.

Frédéric Anton's 3-Michelin pavilion in the Bois de Boulogne.

1-Michelin garden-supplied dining room in a private Passy château-hotel.

Yasunari Okazaki's two-Michelin sushi counter inside Pavillon Ledoyen — twelve seats, ikejime fish.