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The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome, choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie, Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

1919 Place des Ternes brasserie, Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

1883 Belle Époque seafood brasserie, Rostang family, daily-port-sourced fish.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.