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The Goncourt Prize restaurant since 1914 — Place Gaillon institution under chef Romain Van Thienen

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

Palais-Royal arcade institution since 1784 — historic monument with a kitchen in transition

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

1864 Belle Époque brasserie under a stained-glass dome — choucroute, plateaux de fruits de mer, full theatre.

Sartre and Beauvoir's corner of Boulevard Saint-Germain since 1887.

The other Saint-Germain café, with the better view of the church.

Mourad Mazouz's Marais Maghreb institution since 1990 — tagines and pastilla under 17th-century beams.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen — the realistic same-week booking.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie — Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

1919 Place des Ternes brasserie — Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

1883 Belle Époque seafood brasserie — Rostang family, daily-port-sourced fish.

One Michelin star inside Place des Vosges' most discreet pavilion — Marais gastronomy without the spectacle.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank — Chartier's brother house, listed.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.