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Three-Michelin since 1996, the chef who taught Paris that haute cuisine could improvise.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen, the realistic same-week booking.

Fewer than 20 seats, one Michelin star, one chef's vision, the Marais's most surgical tasting menu.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004, riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

Anatolian home cooking on rue Pasquier, the Madeleine room the Istanbul audience will actually recognise.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges, and the city's largest pastis collection.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie, Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen, and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.