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The Levha sisters' Franco-Filipino neo-bistro under a hand-painted ceiling on rue Saint-Maur.

Maxime Bouttier's first solo table — raw-and-living tasting menu on rue de la Folie Méricourt.

Three-Michelin since 1996 — the chef who taught Paris that haute cuisine could improvise.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen — the realistic same-week booking.

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation — Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

Modern French bistronomic on a quiet Les Halles side street — chef-driven, value-strong tasting

Fewer than 20 seats, one Michelin star, one chef's vision — the Marais's most surgical tasting menu.

Half-punk, half-precise — the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin — Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004 — riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

Sardinian cuisine on a quiet 11e street — Francesca Feniello's traditional bistrot, Le Fooding selection.

Manoj Sharma's modern Indian on rue de Choiseul — the 2e room that finally read Indian cooking as a chef's cuisine.

Modern Vietnamese on rue Amelot — the 11e room that does the spring roll seven ways.

Mikaela Liaroutsos's Greek bistro on rue Eugène Carrière — Michelin Guide listing, Le Fooding regular.

Anatolian home cooking on rue Pasquier — the Madeleine room the Istanbul audience will actually recognise.

Julio Guerrero's neo-taquería on rue Lacharrière — Mexico-City standard, natural wine, Le Fooding register.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group — natural wine and small plates

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges — and the city's largest pastis collection.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie — Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen — and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.