Intimate in Paris

1890 Lyon-bouchon-style bistro — under the Dumant family from 2025, after Ducasse

Modern Vietnamese on rue Amelot — the 11e room that does the spring roll seven ways.

Candlelit 9e dining room, reborn under chef Lucie Boursier-Mougenot.

Italian bistrattoria in the 19th-century Passage des Panoramas — Simone Tondo's Michelin-starred room

Eight-seat sushi counter behind Place Louvois — surgical edomae from chef Masayoshi Hanada.