Στέκια in Bodrum

The Kızılağaç köy kahvaltısı address on the Yalıçiftlik road since 2015, with eggs from the garden coop and a kitchen run by the family that owns the land.

Built on Yalı Mevkii, a classic Gündoğan beach cafe known for its olive-oil dishes and homemade mezes.

Konacık's Atatürk Bulvarı pide-and-kebap room with a buffet kahvaltı for the residential weekend — stone-oven pide and Manisa köfte, open until three.

The 1992 bar street original, vinyl rock from the sixties through the nineties, run by the Subaşıoğlu family

The Barlar Sokağı rock bar that has held the same stage and the same rotating live band line-up since 2006

The Eskiçeşme köfte counter the marina taxi drivers still queue for, three decades into the same recipe

Akyarlar seafront fish room on Yalı Caddesi, a six-meze rakı-balık table at a price ceiling well below the bay's named rooms.

Bodrum's reference for Belgian-style pot mussels, opposite the Gündoğan harbour.

A sourdough pizzeria with hand-crafted gin-tonic on homemade tonic, the village's alternative dinner

Akyarlar harbour boutique-hotel kitchen on Liman Caddesi — Cretan-paste mussel rice and grilled fish at the village register, with rooms upstairs.

Year-round Bitez village brasserie with a mandarin-tree garden, breakfast through dinner.

The Aktur Tatil Sitesi residents' beach — daytime canteen, evening live music, the Bitez compound's working room.

Yahşi-side display-on-ice fish counter — value, freshness, the working version of the Ortakent harbour template.

1968 harbour fish house — the Gümüşlük institution that pre-dates the cove's curated era.

Smaller Gündoğan harbour fish house — the value entry against the cove's anchor names.

An old-Bodrum back-alley bar on Banka Sokak — rock and 80s, signature mandarin Sandoz

The İhtiyar brothers' 1995 ice-cream counter on Bitez square, before it was a national name

A restored stone-house art village on the Yakaköy ridge — galleries, ateliers, an Ottoman ethnographic room and a film bar

The 1983 stone-house jazz bar where Yeni Türkü and Erkan Oğur played before anyone had heard of them

Gündoğan's salt-and-sand original since 2000 — windsurf school by day, neighbourhood bar with live jazz at night

Bodrum's pre-Cumhuriyet-rush institution, on the Neyzen Tevfik harbour since 1979