Στέκια in Florence

The affordable face of Fabio Picchi's Sant'Ambrogio cult kitchen

Twenty-year Neapolitan wood-fired pizzeria near Sant'Ambrogio

Tiny exposed-brick enoteca for small Tuscan growers and cured plates

Café, aperitivo and culture inside a Renzo Piano-restored former prison

Art-bookshop and vegetarian kitchen tucked behind Santa Croce

Tiny Lebanese saj kitchen with home-cook authenticity

Cult San Frediano craft-cocktail bar with an irreverent list

Shabby-chic neighbourhood wine bar in Le Cure

Florence's only sit-down tripperia, lampredotto done seriously

Old-Tuscan tavern right on Fiesole's main piazza

Charcoal-grilled Ottoman and Anatolian cooking, the city's credible Turkish room

Greenhouse wine bar in a riverside garden by Porta San Frediano

Late-night neighbourhood wine room on Borgo San Frediano

Carpenter's-workshop cafe-bar on Piazza Santo Spirito with live music

1981 San Niccolo bar-bistrot with a hidden garden