Στέκια in Oltrarno

16-room design retreat over Europe's largest private garden

Francesco Sanapo's specialty-coffee roaster on the artisan left bank

Tiny Oltrarno gelateria of organic, seasonal, natural-colour gelato

Revered since-1992 wine bar of small independent growers near Ponte Vecchio

Florence's only sit-down tripperia, lampredotto done seriously

Eclectic 13-room Oltrarno B&B of salvaged antiques and frescoes

Family-run since 1945, the Oltrarno trattoria Florentines and insiders book