Στέκια in Lisbon

1905 Chiado coffeehouse, Pessoa's old terrace

Art Deco Rossio café with a literary past since 1929

Mouraria's 35-year Mozambican kitchen

Neighbourhood tasca for fried cuttlefish and petiscos

Italian-grandmother cooking in a former Beato video shop

Ground-zero natural-wine deli, cellar and bar

Specialty coffee and real-food brunch in a former pharmacy

Lisbon's oldest pastry house, family-run since 1829

Family tinned-fish house unchanged since 1930

Community kitchen where the neighbourhood cooks together

The brewery that started Lisbon's Beer District

Tiny, tightly edited specialty bar by Principe Real

Pioneering Lisbon roaster on a 5kg Probatone

Plant-forward brunch and specialty coffee in Anjos

Stone-milled Portuguese-grain bread from Alcantara

In-house-roasted specialty coffee and magazines in Bica

The world's oldest operating bookshop, on Rua Garrett since 1773

Naturally-leavened pizza, Basque cheesecake and natural wine

Riverfront museum of art, architecture and technology

Light-filled all-day café for creative brunch in Belém

Multi-room live-music cocktail bar off the Pink Street strip

Austrian-owned all-day cafe with cake, books and worn sofas

Vine-shaded courtyard bistro with a 'no fado, no sardines' creed

The original Cais do Sodre conservas bar

Sourdough, pastry and specialty coffee at 8 Marvila

The bacalhau tasca chefs name as the city's best