Στέκια in Milan

All-day Italian in a former seminary on the Quadrilatero's grand square

Eritrean dining staged like a desert tent on Via Melzo

Seventh-floor Armani Hotel dining room, controlled and contemporary

Giorgio Armani's own fashion museum in a 1950s grain silo

The 1947 cocktail temple where the Negroni Sbagliato was born

The home of the Milanese aperitivo, since 1915

Italy's first urban winery, with a Porta Romana wine bar

An 1896 enoteca on Via Paolo Sarpi opening hundreds of labels by the glass

Chef Vanessa Viscardi's hidden 18th-century patrician dining room

Carlo Cracco's Michelin-starred flagship in the Galleria

Liberty-style wine house with a cheese bar, since 1952

Refined all-day bistrot on patrician Via Vincenzo Monti

Rem Koolhaas-designed contemporary-art campus (skip Bar Luce)

Family gelateria since 1930, classic craft and Milanese flavours

Serious mixology off the botanical garden in Brera

Three-star chef's clean contemporary Italian at the Bulgari Hotel

Milan's cult seafood room, glamour without compromise on the fish

Giorgio Caruso's soft, slow-risen Neapolitan-style pizza

Vintage-apothecary cocktail room on the Naviglio Grande

David Chipperfield's culture museum in a former Ansaldo factory

Historic Brera enoteca in a former Augustinian refectory

Milan's pioneering third-wave specialty coffee bar

Milan's cult gourmet panino counter since 1964

Milan's 1817 caffè-pasticceria, on Montenapoleone since 1950

Southern-Italian pastry and proper espresso between Repubblica and Porta Venezia

The original 1824 pasticceria, Belle Époque intact

Artisan bakery and pasticceria, the Porta Venezia breakfast standard

Milan's great art gallery in the Palazzo di Brera

A former factory turned one of Europe's great free contemporary-art spaces

Cesare Battisti's modern-classic Milanese osteria

Eritrean and Ethiopian cooking with a traditional coffee ceremony

The Marchesi-legacy restaurant beside La Scala

Neoclassical design boutique a block off Montenapoleone

Rigorous classical Japanese behind a vertical garden in Brera

Farm-to-table in a restored 17th-century cascina

Two-Michelin-star tasting at a counter above Piazza Duomo

Maida Mercuri's canal-side osteria, a Navigli institution

Brera's artists' bar since 1911

Since 1984, the founding Eritrean table of Milan's 'Little Asmara'

Ritu Dalmia and Viviana Varese's well-travelled global kitchen on Via Melzo

Nearly 30 years of true Eritrean cooking on Via Melzo