Στέκια in Paris

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank — Chartier's brother house, listed.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie — Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen — and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

1927 Trocadéro tea-room — marble tables, white aprons, view across to the Tower.

1900 Bois de Boulogne pavilion — Michelin star since 1965, Empire and Belle Époque rotunda.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686 — Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

A working 'routier' off Trocadéro — checkered tablecloths, 18-euro lunch.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen — the realistic same-week booking.