Στέκια in Paris

MOF chef, 1-Michelin, Parisian-apartment dining on rue Bayen.

The 1896 original — Belle Époque listed dining room, twelve euros for blanquette.

1906 Art Nouveau bouillon — Mucha-style nymphs, listed monument, Édith Piaf's table.

The XXL bouillon that put 19th-century working-class dining back on the map.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank — Chartier's brother house, listed.

1919 Place des Ternes brasserie — Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

1895 Saint-Lazare brasserie — Niermans mosaics, listed since 1989.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen — and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

1927 Trocadéro tea-room — marble tables, white aprons, view across to the Tower.

1883 Belle Époque seafood brasserie — Rostang family, daily-port-sourced fish.

1900 Bois de Boulogne pavilion — Michelin star since 1965, Empire and Belle Époque rotunda.

1889 Abbesses brasserie — shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686 — Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

A working 'routier' off Trocadéro — checkered tablecloths, 18-euro lunch.

2-Michelin institution off Place des Ternes — 45 years of haute French classicism.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen — the realistic same-week booking.