Στέκια in Paris

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro, Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

Modern Vietnamese on rue Amelot, the 11e room that does the spring roll seven ways.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie, Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges, and the city's largest pastis collection.

Tiny natural-wine bar inside the covered Passage des Panoramas, a Paris postcard.

The Melbourne brunch room that taught Montmartre flat whites.

The Australian-style breakfast counter that taught Paris to queue for pancakes, and serve them well.

12 rooms, exposed beams, quiet 4e side street, the Marais's small, well-priced character hotel.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

The original 1862 Ladurée tea room, the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Canal Saint-Martin Cambodian institution, bo bun, summer rolls, banana-tapioca dessert, packed every night.

Vegan French on rue Saint-Paul, twenty-plus years reinterpreting French classics without animal product.

A turn-of-the-century café preserved without irony, zinc bar, red banquettes, all-day terrace.

Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution, 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

A working 'routier' off Trocadéro, checkered tablecloths, 18-euro lunch.

Mickaël Benichou's 2013 patisserie-boulangerie, painted-ceiling 19th-century shop, marble counter heaped with bread

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie, kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

Marais épicerie-fine + restaurant, Delphine Plisson's Dean & DeLuca answer for Paris.

Counter-seat Korean, chef Kim Kwang-Loc's mandu and tartares, fashion-week regulars on stools.

Ethiopian institution on rue Sauffroy, the 17e Batignolles room that has held the cuisine in Paris for decades.

Japanese-precision French classical pâtisserie on avenue de Breteuil, Saint-Honoré as the benchmark

Japanese-French pâtisserie since 2001, matcha, yuzu and black sesame on classical French structures

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades, tea room facing the Tuileries

Paris's oldest pâtisserie since 1730, Louis XV's pastry chef's listed shop on rue Montorgueil

Sardinian cuisine on a quiet 11e street, Francesca Feniello's traditional bistrot, Le Fooding selection.

Yann Couvreur's first patisserie since May 2016, the original room with the fox-mark logo

11e cave-à-manger with one of Paris's deepest natural-wine cellars, 250+ cuvées.