Στέκια in Paris

12 rooms, exposed beams, quiet 4e side street, the Marais's small, well-priced character hotel.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

French-spirits-only cocktail bar in a graffiti-clad doorway, World's 50 Best Bars regular.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

Ethiopian institution on rue Sauffroy, the 17e Batignolles room that has held the cuisine in Paris for decades.

The Picasso of pastry, in his original Saint-Germain showcase.