Στέκια in Paris

Yannick Alléno's three-Michelin in a pavilion at the Champs-Élysées gardens — the sauce-extraction reference.

Alain Passard's three-Michelin temple to vegetables on rue de Varenne.

Faubourg Saint-Honoré palace — Epicure (3 Michelin) and the audience's safest 8e booking.

Christian Le Squer's three-Michelin showcase inside George V — the textbook for Paris haute cuisine.

Jérôme Banctel's three-Michelin in a Napoleon III mansion off the Champs-Élysées.

Frédéric Anton's 3-Michelin pavilion in the Bois de Boulogne.

Three-Michelin since 1996 — the chef who taught Paris that haute cuisine could improvise.

Two Michelin stars in the Hôtel de la Monnaie, looking at the Seine.