Στέκια in Paris

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie — Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen — and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges — and the city's largest pastis collection.

Tiny natural-wine bar inside the covered Passage des Panoramas — a Paris postcard.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group — natural wine and small plates

12 rooms, exposed beams, quiet 4e side street — the Marais's small, well-priced character hotel.

Natural-wine cave-à-manger from 2008 — David Lebovitz's pick, pre-trend bona fides.

Vegan French on rue Saint-Paul — twenty-plus years reinterpreting French classics without animal product.

Sentier rum den behind a grilled-cheese counter — Joseph Akhavan's 100-plus-rum library, Diffords-listed.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie — kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

Marais épicerie-fine + restaurant — Delphine Plisson's Dean & DeLuca answer for Paris.

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades — tea room facing the Tuileries

Paris's oldest pâtisserie since 1730 — Louis XV's pastry chef's listed shop on rue Montorgueil