Στέκια in Paris

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie — Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen — and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges — and the city's largest pastis collection.

12 rooms, exposed beams, quiet 4e side street — the Marais's small, well-priced character hotel.

The original 1862 Ladurée tea room — the room that invented the Paris salon de thé.

Natural-wine cave-à-manger from 2008 — David Lebovitz's pick, pre-trend bona fides.

Vegan French on rue Saint-Paul — twenty-plus years reinterpreting French classics without animal product.

Myriam Sabet's Levantine pâtisserie — kadaïf 1001-feuilles that Istanbul visitors instinctively recognise.

Marais épicerie-fine + restaurant — Delphine Plisson's Dean & DeLuca answer for Paris.

Counter-seat Korean — chef Kim Kwang-Loc's mandu and tartares, fashion-week regulars on stools.

Ethiopian institution on rue Sauffroy — the 17e Batignolles room that has held the cuisine in Paris for decades.

Classical French pâtisserie under the Pyramides arcades — tea room facing the Tuileries