Στέκια in Rome

Bottiglieria dal 1895, Monti's beating wine-bar heart

Bib Gourmand Roman cooking facing Teatro Palladium

Unassuming Monti enoteca for the serious-but-quiet glass

Garbatella's revived historic forno, lab and restaurant

Manuele Colonna's craft-beer temple with Trapizzino

Pigneto's deep-rotation craft beer bar and bottle shop

Belle-Epoque enoteca and all-day wine room since 2011

Esquilino natural-wine bar of small artisanal labels

Classical sculpture displayed against a 1900s power-station's turbines

The Pigneto cocktail lab behind the Carbonara Sour

Three-decade neighbourhood trattoria with day-specific menus

Tiny family trattoria doing Roman classics exactly right

San Lorenzo's no-frills seafood institution

Checked-cloth family trattoria of pure Roman recipes

All-day Ostiense bakery-bistro known for its generous aperitivo

Natural-wine enoteca and bistrot by Teatro Palladium

The natural-wine bar that changed Flaminio, by MAXXI

Aliena-roasted specialty coffee and brunch on leafy Viale Aventino

Textbook cucina romana cut into the amphora hill

Pioneering Trastevere cocktail bar in a former mechanic's garage

All-day Prati canteen, wine bar and gastroteca

Cult Monti natural-wine enoteca with a real kitchen

Graffiti-walled Roman osteria on Via Panisperna since 1906

Below-street industrial bar for fermented sodas, natural wine and canned cocktails

The tiny pub that launched Italy's craft-beer movement

Rome's reference Indian kitchen, tucked into Monti

Danish-Italian micro-bakery and seasonal bistro in Ostiense

Zaha Hadid's national museum of 21st-century art and architecture

Artisan food hall in Termini's Cappa Mazzoniana

Rome's best Ethiopian, on Pigneto's Via Prenestina edge

Pasolini's old haunt, Pigneto's all-day hub

Art-of-bread bakery and café on Via Merulana since 1929

Andrea De Bellis's modern, French-and-Spanish-trained pastry

Third-wave coffee at the edge of Prati, syphon to nitro

Mother-and-daughters kitchen lab for inventive panini, pasta and focaccia

Gabriele Bonci's landmark pizza al taglio

San Lorenzo's Pasolini-era trattoria, family-run since 1890

Industrial all-day food hall and bistro in a converted Ostiense warehouse

Garden cafe and all-day kitchen hidden in residential San Saba

Centenary chocolate factory with bar and kitchen in San Lorenzo

Wood-roasted espresso landmark since 1938

Pier Daniele Seu's contemporary-pizza laboratory on the Trastevere fringe

Boisterous San Lorenzo trattoria of Roman and Pugliese cooking

Esquilino stronghold of Roman cucina, carbonara that ranks

Bib Gourmand Roman trattoria anchoring the Ostiense food district

Cacio e pepe as liturgy since 1911

All-day Garbatella caffetteria, vineria and vinyl bar

Market-driven Roman cooking and natural wine, south of Ostiense

Chef-led Peruvian cooking by Piazza Dante in Esquilino

KM-0 Lazio terroir cooking in the heart of Monti

Chic post-industrial kitchen with a creative seasonal menu