Intimate in Kadıköy

A three-storey mansion off Kadıköy's beaten track, meze-first, with a garden of old Turkish records.

Koşuyolu's Aegean meyhane, a proper meze cabinet and a neighborhood that keeps it to itself.

Tucked-in Sakız Gülü wine bar with a tight, evolving Turkish-focused list.

Three-storey 19th-century Greek house turned wine room

Proper Napoli-style with San Marzano, fermented dough, and standout tiramisu

Hi-fi listening room above Michelin-star Arkestra; rotating record collectors, low-lit cocktails.