Editorial
In-depth guides, local perspectives, and editorial stories on Naples's food, culture, and neighborhoods.
Naples invented this thing, and the city is now papered with imitations of itself. Here is how to tell the verace temples from the windows full of postcard pizza — and which pies are actually worth crossing town for.
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On the right side of the city, Sunday lunch is the meal that matters — spaghetti alle vongole that took four hours, a carafe of something white and cold, and a view of the bay you will think about for years.
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A city famous for street food keeps a quieter secret: a serious fine-dining tier, led by a rooftop in Chiaia and a French master at the port. Here is where Naples puts on its evening clothes.
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The Neapolitan morning is a fixed liturgy: a coffee taken standing, a still-warm sfogliatella, sixty seconds of conversation. Done at the right counters, it is the most civilized thing the city does.
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Naples drinks late and drinks well, but its best bars hide in plain sight — a speakeasy behind a Chiaia door, a converted apothecary in the Vomero, wine cellars that take the bottle as seriously as any cellar in Italy.
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Spaccanapoli is the most touristed corridor in the city and also home to some of its best food. The two facts live a few meters apart. Here is how to walk the historic center and eat like you belong there.
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