Plekken in Graça / Mouraria

Mouraria's 35-year Mozambican kitchen

Community kitchen where the neighbourhood cooks together

Old bakery turned restaurant, bar and concert room

Thirty-year river-terrace dining room above Santa Apolónia

Former drugstore turned slow-food wine bar

Eight-seat kaiseki counter from Paulo Morais

Tiled Graca tasca favoured by Lisbon's own chefs

Ze Paulo Rocha's modern Mouraria tavern, reborn

Brazilian-Portuguese petiscos in a tiny Mouraria room

Charcoal ribs and communal benches in a Mouraria alley

Tiny Graca counter where Portugal meets Japanese technique

The bacalhau tasca chefs name as the city's best