Plekken in Madrid

Persian market cuisine from a one-woman kitchen

The locals' temple of battered bacalao near Plaza Mayor

All-day West-Coast cafe with in-house bakery and La Cabra coffee

Specialty-coffee espresso bar in Salamanca

Communal-table specialty coffee with an Asian-vintage touch

Lavapiés roaster supplying the city's best specialty bars

Salamanca's real neighbourhood food market

Chueca's real food market with a rooftop terrace

Chamberí's 1933 market reborn as a boundary-pushing food hall

Hola Coffee's specialty café and bakehouse on the Conde Duque edge

The canonical Spanish painting collection, Velázquez, Goya, Bosch

Spain's modern-art museum and the home of Guernica

The collection that fills the gaps, eight centuries on one walk

Artisan sourdough bakery across from the Conde Duque centre

Madrid's second-oldest tavern, beloved of Lorca's generation

Toma's Chamberí roastery room near Plaza de Olavide

Conde Duque specialty roastery cafe with natural wine after dark

Spain's exclusive La Cabra outpost for coffee and bakehouse

Tiny Georgian bistrot for khachapuri and khinkali

Eco specialty coffee and all-day brunch in Lavapiés

The roaster that lit Madrid's specialty-coffee fuse, since 2012