Plekken in Paris

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank — Chartier's brother house, listed.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen — and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

1889 Abbesses brasserie — shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

A working 'routier' off Trocadéro — checkered tablecloths, 18-euro lunch.