Roteiros a pé por Çeşme

An unhurried walk through the cobbled lanes of Alaçatı's old village — wine bar, stone-house dinner, late dessert under the bougainvillea

A long lunch across the boutique wineries of the Tokoğlu plateau — tastings, vine-shaded set menus, an olive oil museum on the way home

Honest fish tables along the Çeşme harbour — whole-grilled balık, mastic ice cream, the castle wall watching from above

A morning among the ruins of ancient Erythrae and the seven-island view, finished with whole grilled fish at Ali'nin Yeri

The slow Aegean — village breakfast above the bay, a cheese atelier in Eğlenhoca, and a long fish lunch in Mordoğan