Wiltons

JKS Restaurants' two-Michelin-star Indian on Albemarle Street — Trishna's older Mayfair sister and the standard against which the rest measure themselves.

Three Michelin stars in the panelled drawing room of Mayfair's most discreet hotel — the defining London fine-dining address.

Angela Hartnett's one-star Italian on Queen Street — the civilised Mayfair lunch the neighbourhood's regulars actually keep.

Mount Street seafood and the city's most consequential lunch crowd — the Mayfair set-piece.

Pierre Gagnaire's three-Michelin-star Mayfair drawing room — the most theatrical fine-dining address in W1.

Northern Chinese on level 33 of The Shard — the view-room and the dish where guests in town for a single weekend take their out-of-town parents.