Restaurant in London

Tomos Parry's Basque-grill flagship, whole turbot over wood, the room that reset East London cooking

The Dirik family ocakbaşı since 1994, the canonical Turkish address the audience takes London-Turks to

P. Franco's successor at 107 Lower Clapton, a 25-cover wine shop with a hot plate at the back, chef residencies kept

A 40-cover kitchen-and-natural-wine warehouse under the Bermondsey arches, chef Steve Williams

Ed Wilson's Columbia Road natural-wine bistro, the East End's most consistent neighbourhood kitchen

Green Lanes' top-edged Southeastern Anatolian ocakbaşı, kuzu pirzola the Anatolian standard

The Yavuz family's Green Lanes flagship since 1999, the polished mainstream of London Turkish

The original Ali Dirik ocakbaşı on Arcola Street since 1990, BYOB, walk-in only, untouched

The larger Greek Street sister, 2020 in the former Gay Hussar room, with a proper kitchen

David Carter's wood-and-oak smokehouse, the brisket Sunday lunch the chapter actually returns to