Lugares in Madrid

Persian market cuisine from a one-woman kitchen

Calle Argumosa's alternative tapas terrace

1892 bodega, vermut de grifo and one of Madrid's best tortillas

1827 taberna on Cervantes' old street

The Rastro's snail institution since 1942

A 1920 taberna reborn, ibérico-and-truffle croquetas and noble menú del día

1941 bullfighting tavern famed for its fried merluza

Reborn 1950s vermouth tavern on an 8-metre marble bar

Plaza de San Ildefonso specialty café and work-friendly hub

1929-rooted tin-bar taberna by the Retiro

Bohemian all-day kitchen with a Michelin-pedigree hand

Quiet old-school tapas bar beside the Conde Duque centre

Bohemian Basque pintxo bar on Cava Baja since the 1980s

Malasaña's mid-century living room, all day into the night

House-macerated spirits workshop between Chueca and Malasaña

The credible Turkish kitchen Madrid actually has

Chueca's real food market with a rooftop terrace

Lavapiés's real neo-Mudéjar market, from fishmongers to natural wine

Chamberí's 1933 market reborn as a boundary-pushing food hall

Spain's modern-art museum and the home of Guernica

Tiny Georgian bistrot for khachapuri and khinkali

Artisan sourdough bakery across from the Conde Duque centre

Eco specialty coffee and all-day brunch in Lavapiés

A former adult cinema reborn as a cultural bar-cinema

A 'wine cult' with 400+ wines by the glass on Ponzano

Beam-and-stone Cava Baja wine taberna with a deep Spanish list

Madrid's second-oldest tavern, beloved of Lorca's generation

Cava Baja vermut taberna with the secret 'Manuela' pour, since 1996

Neo-taberna with sharp Spanish tapas on the Conde Duque edge

Three-chef Bib Gourmand with half-portion freedom