Lugares in Milan

All-day Italian in a former seminary on the Quadrilatero's grand square

Milan's 4th-century Romanesque heart, founded by St Ambrose

The Pinacoteca di Brera's own bistrot-café

The home of the Milanese aperitivo, since 1915

Italy's first urban winery, with a Porta Romana wine bar

An 1896 enoteca on Via Paolo Sarpi opening hundreds of labels by the glass

Carlo Cracco's Michelin-starred flagship in the Galleria

Liberty-style wine house with a cheese bar, since 1952

Refined all-day bistrot on patrician Via Vincenzo Monti

A Parisian bistrot inside a working Brera florist

Rem Koolhaas-designed contemporary-art campus (skip Bar Luce)

Seven-seat Edo-style omakase counter by master Masashi Suzuki

Noma alumni's Scandi-Italian specialty coffee and pastry under the Gae Aulenti towers

All-female micro-roastery for serious specialty coffee

David Chipperfield's culture museum in a former Ansaldo factory

Italy's largest science museum in a 16th-century monastery

Historic Brera enoteca in a former Augustinian refectory

Milan's pioneering third-wave specialty coffee bar

Milan's 1817 caffè-pasticceria, on Montenapoleone since 1950

Southern-Italian pastry and proper espresso between Repubblica and Porta Venezia

The original 1824 pasticceria, Belle Époque intact

Artisan bakery and pasticceria, the Porta Venezia breakfast standard

Milan's great art gallery in the Palazzo di Brera

A former factory turned one of Europe's great free contemporary-art spaces

The Marchesi-legacy restaurant beside La Scala

Neoclassical design boutique a block off Montenapoleone

Farm-to-table in a restored 17th-century cascina

Two-Michelin-star tasting at a counter above Piazza Duomo