Divellec

Jacques Le Divellec ran his eponymous seafood restaurant on rue Fabert from 1983 to 2013; Bernard and Mathieu Pacaud (the L'Ambroisie family) reopened it in 2016 as Divellec, kept the maritime register, and earned a Michelin star. The dining room is tropical-modernist — palms, rattan, blue lacquer — and the menu moves with the boats: sole meunière from small day-boats, blue-lobster aïoli, langoustines with tarragon, line-caught bar baked in salt crust. Now under executive chef Margot Bourgeois. The price/quality ratio for top-of-range French seafood is among the better arguments in the 7e. Reserve a week ahead.