Pétrelle

For three decades Pétrelle was Jean-Luc André's secret — a candlelit room on the edge of the 9e where French presidents and gallerists ate the same cuisine du marché in muted near-silence. Closed in 2019, reopened September 2020 by Lucie Boursier-Mougenot in the kitchen and Luca Danti running the room, the restaurant has kept the antique objects, chandeliers and white tablecloths while sending out a tighter four-course tasting menu of bold-flavored, producer-driven cooking. Le Fooding and Gilles Pudlowski both wrote favorably about the second life. For an Istanbul visitor who wants a dinner with no music, no photographs, and complete intent, Pétrelle is the room.