Lokale in Lisbon

Candlelit Italo-Portuguese small plates with a tight natural list

Jose Avillez's two-Michelin-star contemporary Portuguese flagship

1905 Chiado coffeehouse, Pessoa's old terrace

Marble-and-wood petiscos between tasca and fine dining

Mouraria's 35-year Mozambican kitchen

The Anjos seafood institution since the 1950s

1947 beer-hall marisqueira for shellfish straight from the tank

Lisbon's oldest pastry house, family-run since 1829

Community kitchen where the neighbourhood cooks together

Old bakery turned restaurant, bar and concert room

The brewery that started Lisbon's Beer District

Wood-fired pizza and sushi on the CCB roof terrace

Mid-century landmark hotel above the park with a serious dining stable

Long-running hidden cocktail bar in a Belle Epoque room

Wood-panelled seafood institution running since 1936

Stone-milled Portuguese-grain bread from Alcantara

Former drugstore turned slow-food wine bar

London-born regional Indian, Bib Gourmand in Chiado

Low-lit cocktail and oyster bar themed around the printed word

Counter-driven Japanese tavern in Principe Real

Grand brasserie of altitude inside a centenary Avenida theatre

Brazilian-accented wine bar and petiscos in a leafy Principe Real corner

Eight-seat kaiseki counter from Paulo Morais

The world's oldest operating bookshop, on Rua Garrett since 1773

Alexandre Silva's Michelin-starred tasting-menu temple by the Basílica

Naturally-leavened pizza, Basque cheesecake and natural wine

The pastel de nata, made to order behind glass

The cult pastel de nata, freshly gonged, minus the Belém queue

Adults-only design hotel with the best terrace over Alfama's rooftops

Multi-room live-music cocktail bar off the Pink Street strip

Progressive Alentejo and talha wine at a U-shaped marble bar

1943 pastelaria, repeat 'best pastel de nata' winner

Nose-to-tail Alentejano pork in a no-frills Campo de Ourique room

Destination natural-wine bar and shop by Jardim da Estrela

Austrian-owned all-day cafe with cake, books and worn sofas

Globe-trotting small plates and an all-natural drinks list

Bell-and-frog speakeasy on the World's 50 Best Bars list

Wood-fired Mediterranean, vinyl and natural wine in quiet Lapa

The original Cais do Sodre conservas bar

Fifteen-room townhouse hotel with a garden-fed kitchen

Henrique Sa Pessoa's tapas-and-petiscos vermouth bar

Vitor Sobral's reinvented corner tavern

1933 grand hotel anchoring the avenue's luxury axis

Restored 18th-century palace above the Bica miradouro

Brazilian-founded restaurant, bar and gallery for sharing plates

Charcoal ribs and communal benches in a Mouraria alley

Tiny Graca counter where Portugal meets Japanese technique

Belgian-Portuguese dining in a 17th-century convent cloister

Lisbon's credible Anatolian room, an all-women kitchen

Chef Hugo Brito's deconstructed Portugal in a former Alfama butcher shop

Peruvian cooking by Diego Munoz with the Avillez group

Sleek Marvila brewpub with a view of the silos

Slow-fermented artisan bakery from Vitor Sobral & Mário Rolando

Palace-turned-suites hotel atop Bairro Alto