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Tiled Graca tasca favoured by Lisbon's own chefs

Nose-to-tail Alentejano pork in a no-frills Campo de Ourique room

Neighbourhood tasca for fried cuttlefish and petiscos

Ze Paulo Rocha's modern Mouraria tavern, reborn

Mouraria's 35-year Mozambican kitchen

Community kitchen where the neighbourhood cooks together

Brazilian-Portuguese petiscos in a tiny Mouraria room

Henrique Sa Pessoa's tapas-and-petiscos vermouth bar

Naturally-leavened pizza, Basque cheesecake and natural wine

Tiny market-driven bistro from two young chef-owners

Decades-old Alentejano specialist for roast kid and rice

27-seat modern taberna for inventive petiscos near the Pantheon

Vine-shaded courtyard bistro with a 'no fado, no sardines' creed

Jose Avillez's two-Michelin-star contemporary Portuguese flagship

Vincent Farges's Michelin-starred essay in restraint

First Michelin-starred vegetarian table in Iberia

Nun-run canteen with one of Lisbon's best secret views

Charcoal ribs and communal benches in a Mouraria alley

The Anjos seafood institution since the 1950s

Candlelit Italo-Portuguese small plates with a tight natural list