French in London

Eighteenth-century Lexington Street townhouse with a handwritten daily menu, the last romantic room in old Soho

Piccadilly's grand café, the Viennese-Parisian brasserie that runs from breakfast to supper

Keith McNally's Russell Street brasserie, the SoHo Manhattan original transposed to Covent Garden, twelve years in.

Ed Wilson's Columbia Road natural-wine bistro, the East End's most consistent neighbourhood kitchen

Great Titchfield Street's all-day brasserie, the Fitzrovia office and the Sunday brunch in one room