Lokale in London

London's first authentic Antep baklavacı since 1993, Murat Üstünsürmeli's Grand Parade pastry house

The Cut's no-bookings gastropub, what Waterloo eats before the National Theatre

Dean Street's no-music, no-mobiles holdout, the Soho the audience first read about in the 80s

Erchen Chang and the Chung siblings' original Lexington Street bun counter, Bib Gourmand Taiwanese, queue-only on the corner

Boundary Street's Bombay Irani café, the bacon naan roll Londoners queue for at breakfast

Green Lanes' top-edged Southeastern Anatolian ocakbaşı, kuzu pirzola the Anatolian standard

Coal Drops Yard sit-down taqueria, al pastor on a vertical spit, the rebranded Casa Pastor

The Yavuz family's Green Lanes flagship since 1999, the polished mainstream of London Turkish

Bermondsey Street's standing-room Spanish bar since 2011, José Pizarro's pintxos counter

Ben Chapman's Brewer Street counter, Thai grill cooking over wood and clay, no reservations, the Bib Gourmand argument

Pistachio-green Soho deli since 1944, pasta as Italian commute

Greek Street's 1871 patisserie, London's oldest French pastry shop, still hand-laminated upstairs

The original Ali Dirik ocakbaşı on Arcola Street since 1990, BYOB, walk-in only, untouched

Sam and Sam Clark's tapas-bar sister to Moro, eight metres along the same row, the small-plate version of the same kitchen.

The fresh-pasta queue London actually accepts, Shoreditch sister of the Borough original

Michael and Charlotte Sager-Wildeve's Hackney Road wine bar, the East London natural-wine reference since 2013