Kiln

Kiln opened in 2016 as Smoking Goat founder Ben Chapman's second room, narrow as a corridor with a counter facing a wood-burning kiln and a bank of charcoal grills. The cooking pulls from the Thai-Myanmar-Yunnan border country, with ingredients sourced inside the British Isles — Tamworth pork from Somerset, Cornish day-boat fish, Thai herbs from a Cambridgeshire grower. Bib Gourmand from year one, National Restaurant of the Year in 2018, and still the room every London-resident chef sends a visiting friend to. No reservations, queue-only, eighteen seats — the patience is the price of entry, and the price of entry is twenty-five pounds a person.