Casual in London

Erchen Chang and the Chung siblings' original Lexington Street bun counter — Bib Gourmand Taiwanese, queue-only on the corner

Sam and Eddie Hart's original walk-in tapas counter, relocated — the Spanish bar London learned the format from

Boundary Street's Bombay Irani café — the bacon naan roll Londoners queue for at breakfast

Green Lanes' top-edged Southeastern Anatolian ocakbaşı — kuzu pirzola the Anatolian standard

Coal Drops Yard sit-down taqueria — al pastor on a vertical spit, the rebranded Casa Pastor

Ben Chapman's Brewer Street counter — Thai grill cooking over wood and clay, no reservations, the Bib Gourmand argument

Pistachio-green Soho deli since 1944 — pasta as Italian commute

Greek Street's 1871 patisserie — London's oldest French pastry shop, still hand-laminated upstairs

The original Ali Dirik ocakbaşı on Arcola Street since 1990 — BYOB, walk-in only, untouched

The fresh-pasta queue London actually accepts — Shoreditch sister of the Borough original

Great Titchfield Street's all-day brasserie — the Fitzrovia office and the Sunday brunch in one room

David Carter's wood-and-oak smokehouse — the brisket Sunday lunch the chapter actually returns to

Endo Kazutoshi's Notting Hill casual — sushi without the omakase ceremony