The larger Greek Street sister — 2020 in the former Gay Hussar room, with a proper kitchen
Noble Rot took the historic Gay Hussar room on Greek Street in 2020 — the Soho institution where Robin Cook and the Labour left used to plot. The wood-panelled, oxblood-leather Hungarian shell was kept; what changed is what comes out of the kitchen and what is poured. The list runs to 600+ bins, the Burgundy section especially deep, with the same unfussy mark-up principle as Lamb's Conduit. Stephen Harris of The Sportsman in Whitstable consulted on the original menu; the kitchen now runs a longer, more ambitious brief than the Bloomsbury original — whole turbot, dressed crab, charcuterie from Cornwall. The Soho pre-theatre and post-Almeida room.
The Greek Street room is the booking when the table needs to seat six and eat properly; Lamb's Conduit is the booking for the wine-counter pilgrimage. Ask the sommelier for the off-list bin — they keep a small reserve of older Burgundy that doesn't appear on the printed page.
At a Glance
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Street Scene, London Skyline
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Good
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