Maison Bertaux
Soho
Greek Street's 1871 patisserie — London's oldest French pastry shop, still hand-laminated upstairs
Frith Street since 1949 — the espresso bar Soho is built around
Lou and Caterina Polledri opened Bar Italia under their flat on Frith Street in 1949, and three generations of the family have kept it more or less unchanged since. The Gaggia is original. The wall of Rocky Marciano photographs is original. The Italian football scarves above the bar accumulate but never get thrown out. Open until five in the morning most nights, it is the canonical Soho stop — the place actors, taxi drivers, late-shift chefs and aimless tourists end up at the same counter. The espresso is correct, not transcendent. The point of Bar Italia has never been the coffee. It is one of the last places in central London where the room means more than the menu.
Stand at the counter, not the tables — the price doubles the moment you sit. Order an espresso and a slice of torta della nonna. After dinner in Soho, this is the only correct nightcap if you don't want a cocktail.
At a Glance
View Type
Street Scene, London Skyline
View Quality
Good
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