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Joseph Viola's MOF flagship, the bouchon raised to high craft

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Eugénie Brazier's 1921 temple, two stars under Mathieu Viannay

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Viola's genuine Vieux-Lyon bouchon, not a Saint-Jean tourist trap

Lyon's temple of old-fashioned cocktails since 2010

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Certified Ainay bouchon under a heritage-listed Art Deco ceiling