Ménélik

Paris does not have a deep Ethiopian scene — half a dozen rooms across the city, most off-the-radar. Ménélik on rue Sauffroy in the Batignolles 17e is the institution: named for Emperor Menelik II, opened decades back, the reference for injera and the Horn-of-Africa register the audience visits the city's African diaspora to find. The format is the traditional one — communal injera with wat stews, the doro wat, the shiro, the kitfo — eaten with the hands, shared, slow. Convivial, warm-service, affordable. The Ethiopian best-in-cuisine pick the chapter takes for the cuisine itself.