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Canal Saint-Martin's natural-wine institution, 400 references, plates from the kitchen behind the bottles.

2-Michelin institution off Place des Ternes, 45 years of haute French classicism.

Modern Vietnamese on rue Amelot, the 11e room that does the spring roll seven ways.

Two Michelin since 1946, the institution where Paris learned modern restaurant service.

Place de la Madeleine institution since 1839, Hugo Bourny's contemporary take on the Art Nouveau room.

The Directoire mansion with the retractable roof, a multi-decade Paris institution off the Champs-Élysées.

Madeleine institution since 1927, the first-floor caviar dining room above the boutique.

Truffle institution on the Madeleine since 1932, boutique downstairs, restaurant upstairs.

The no-reservations rue du Nil counter from Gregory Marchand's group, natural wine and small plates

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges, and the city's largest pastis collection.

Bertrand Larcher's original Paris crêperie, Bordier butter, Breton cider, Tokyo-trained discipline.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen, and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

Half-punk, half-precise, the natural-wine small-plates bistro that rewrote the 11e in 2011.

Mok and Omar's lunch counter and bakery, Lebanese-Japanese-American detail in a 25-seat room.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Charles Compagnon's open-plan neo-bistro, Asian-inflected cooking, no reservations, all-day kitchen.

Counter-seat Korean, chef Kim Kwang-Loc's mandu and tartares, fashion-week regulars on stools.

Canal Saint-Martin Cambodian institution, bo bun, summer rolls, banana-tapioca dessert, packed every night.

1906 Art Nouveau room on the Left Bank, Chartier's brother house, listed.