Restaurant in Paris

Alain Passard's three-Michelin temple to vegetables on rue de Varenne.

Two Michelin stars in the Hôtel de la Monnaie, looking at the Seine.

The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

Gaël Orieux's quiet Michelin star, sustainable fish only, fifteen years running.

The 1896 original, Belle Époque listed dining room, twelve euros for blanquette.

The XXL bouillon that put 19th-century working-class dining back on the map.

Alsatian choucroute, landmarked Art Nouveau, the Académiciens' lunch.

Brazilian asador, Lucas Baur de Campos's open-fire 11e room, Le Fooding, Infatuation cult.

Jody Williams's all-day gastrothèque, the SoPi room that never feels off.

Mathieu Pacaud's seafood Michelin star, behind the Esplanade des Invalides.

Manoj Sharma's modern Indian on rue de Choiseul, the 2e room that finally read Indian cooking as a chef's cuisine.

Hemingway's table, a piano bar, and the steak that bears his name.

1889 Abbesses brasserie, shellfish counter, Cantal charcuterie, no Montmartre theatre.

The tiny bistro between Saint-Sulpice and Luxembourg, Fooding-prize winner.

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

Palais-Royal arcade institution since 1784, historic monument with a kitchen in transition

Frédéric Anton's two-star kitchen 125m up the Eiffel Tower.

The oldest café in Paris, opened 1686, Voltaire, Diderot, Franklin all ate here.

The soufflé restaurant of the 7e, behind Le Bon Marché.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

The Bernard Loiseau group's Michelin-starred Palais-Bourbon canteen.

Two Michelin stars, a Green Star, and surprise tasting menus.

Eric Trochon's industrial bistronomy on rue de Seine.

Tomy Gousset's Michelin-starred neo-bistro near the Esplanade.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal, Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation, Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes

William Ledeuil's Southeast-Asian-French cuisine, Michelin-starred since 2008.