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The 1932 bistro classique, Ducasse-stewarded since 2013.

Mediterranean cooking with a Tuileries terrace at the foot of the Louvre

The bistronomy capital of Paris, on the Carrefour de l'Odéon.

1919 Place des Ternes brasserie, Laura Gonzalez interior, three-time MOF écailler.

Basque auberge on Quai Saint-Exupéry, Pierre Oteiza Kintoa pork, pintxos, the Trinquet Village Seine-edge terrace.

The Académie française's secret canteen, in Voltaire's own building.

Christian Constant's cast-iron-pot canteen on rue Saint-Dominique.

A Provençal bistro hiding behind Place des Vosges, and the city's largest pastis collection.

1924 corner bistro with an open kitchen, and Paris's most decorated bœuf bourguignon.

Gaël Orieux's quiet Michelin star, sustainable fish only, fifteen years running.

1902 Art Nouveau brasserie on Ledru-Rollin, Mucha frescoes, listed interior, honest cooking.

Stéphane Jégo's Basque-Breton bistronomie since 2004, riz au lait that built a pilgrimage.

Forty-seat 7e bistro behind Musée d'Orsay, chef Patrick Plais's blanquette, lentil salad, chocolate mousse in a fruit-bowl.

1900 Bois de Boulogne pavilion, Michelin star since 1965, Empire and Belle Époque rotunda.

Bertrand Grébaut's 11e neo-bistro that reset the gravitational centre east in 2011.

Greg Marchand's 2e bistro that rewrote the neo-bistro template in 2009.

Alléno's one-Michelin counter format at Pavillon Ledoyen, the realistic same-week booking.

Paul Pairet's grill-and-rotisserie brasserie at the Crillon, the chic French fire-cooking room.

Anglophone-led tasting menu in a triplex above the Palais-Royal, Paris's quiet neo-bistro standard

Adeline Grattard's bistro reincarnation, Franco-Cantonese cooking after Yam'Tcha proper closes